If your toilet is overflowing, act first and call second. Reach behind the bowl and turn the small water valve clockwise to stop the refill, then lift the tank lid and push the flapper down if the tank is still running. Put towels around the base.
Our line is open 24/7, so call while you do this and we will tell you what to try next. Keep people and pets out of the room if the water is dirty, and stay clear of outlets or power strips near the wet floor.
Most toilet emergencies fall into three kinds. The bowl rises and will not drain, water leaks from the base or the tank, or the toilet is cracked or loose and will not hold up. Each has a different cause and a different fix, and guessing wrong costs you a second visit.
When the bowl is rising: toilet overflowing right now
A rising bowl is a drain problem until proven otherwise. A single flush of tissue or a toy can lodge in the trap, but when the same toilet clogs again within days, or other fixtures gurgle when you flush, the blockage is probably deeper in the branch or the main line.
Clog in the toilet trap
The water drains slowly, then rises on the second flush. A closet auger usually clears this without removing the toilet, and we avoid chemical cleaners that sit in the bowl and burn skin.
Clog in the branch or main line
If the shower or floor drain gurgles when the toilet flushes, or the tub shows dirty water, the blockage is past the toilet. That needs drain cleaning, not repeated plunging.
Tank that will not stop filling
A bad fill valve or a worn flapper lets water run over into the overflow tube. It is not a flood by itself, but it wastes water and can show up on your bill.
Water seeping from the base
A failing wax ring or a cracked flange lets water leak at the floor each flush. Left alone, it soaks the subfloor and can drip through the ceiling below.
How we work on a toilet
We start by finding where the water is coming from and whether the toilet is the cause or only the symptom. That sounds obvious until a customer has replaced a flapper three times for a problem that was a cracked tank bolt gasket.
Stop the water and protect the floor
We close the supply valve, check that the valve itself does not drip, and lay down protection before touching the bowl.
Test and find the cause
We flush, watch the fill, check the tank hardware, feel around the base and test the supply line. If the problem looks deeper than the toilet, we say so before we start pulling things apart.
Repair or replace, then retest
We repair worn parts when the toilet is sound and recommend replacement when the porcelain is cracked, the bowl no longer seals or parts for the model are hard to find. Then we flush it several times and check the base for any weeping.
Running toilets and bills that creep up
A toilet that runs after you flush can use a surprising amount of water without any sound you would notice. The usual causes are a flapper that no longer seals, a chain that is too tight or too loose, or a fill valve that never shuts off fully. Many are fixed with a small part and a quick reset, which is why we test before suggesting anything bigger.
A quick home check is to drop a little food coloring in the tank and wait without flushing. If color shows up in the bowl, the flapper is leaking. If the water keeps rising into the overflow tube, the fill valve needs attention.
Your water comes from the San Francisco Regional Water System through the city's own utility, so a running toilet shows up in your Millbrae bill the same as any other leak. We keep the repair simple when we can, and we point out when an older toilet is costing more in water and repairs than a new one would.
Installing a new toilet in a Millbrae home
Replacing a toilet is more than swapping the bowl. The flange must be sound, the floor level, the supply line and shutoff valve in good shape and the new unit the right rough-in size for the space. A mismatch in any of these means a rocking toilet or a leak, which is why the install is often worth doing once and properly.
The city has two rules that matter here. If a project adds a plumbing fixture, such as a new bathroom or a toilet in a basement or garage, Millbrae Municipal Code section 8.20.460 applies. It calls for a camera inspection of the sewer lateral by a licensed plumber or sewer contractor before the building permit is issued. Permits may apply, and the Millbrae Building Division handles plumbing permits.
For a toilet below the level of the street, section 8.20.480 requires a sewer backwater valve and relief device for any building with a floor at or below the city main. A basement bathroom in a lower lot is exactly where this matters, because sewage from the main can back up into the lowest fixture first.
Swapping an existing toilet for a new one is usually simpler than adding one. Ask us when you call and we will tell you which case you have.
Older homes and old toilets
Housing data points to a typical Millbrae house built around 1958, and Census counts show more than half of today's homes were already standing by 1960. Toilets that old have long since been replaced in most places, but the flanges, shutoffs and floors beneath them often were not. We check all three at every install.
DIY or what people try
- Plunging a toilet repeatedly when other drains gurgle
- Pouring drain chemicals into a standing bowl
- Swapping a flapper without checking the fill valve
- Tightening base bolts hard until the porcelain cracks
Professional approach
- Auger the trap first, then check the branch with a camera if it returns
- Clear the blockage mechanically and test every fixture on that line
- Test the full fill and flush cycle and replace the right part
- Reset the toilet on a new wax ring and level it before snugging bolts
What affects the price of a toilet job
What goes into a toilet repair or install
Small repairs and full installs differ a lot, so we price them separately and clearly.
Part or unit
A new flapper or fill valve costs far less than a toilet, and the toilet itself ranges widely by model.
Cause of the problem
A clog in the trap is a quick fix, while a line blockage needs more equipment.
Floor and flange condition
A rotted subfloor or a broken flange adds repair work.
Access and layout
Tight bathrooms and second floor installs take more time.
Permit or inspection needs
Added fixtures can trigger a permit and a lateral inspection under city code.
Call the 24/7 line for a clear price before work starts. We tell you if a repair is not worth the money compared with a new toilet.
Toilet down tonight?
Call the 24/7 line. Tell us if it is overflowing, whether you have shut off the valve and if it is your only bathroom, and we will plan from there.
Related fixture work
A toilet that clogs and a shower that drains slowly in the same house usually share a line, and we can look at both on one visit. If water is coming through the ceiling under a bathroom, the cause may be the toilet seal, a supply line or a leaking tub or sink fitting, so a faucet repair visit can rule one of those out.
Adding a bathroom or moving a toilet is covered under plumbing installation. We serve Millbrae and also Burlingame, and the service area page shows the rest of what we cover.
If you want to book a planned install instead of an emergency, the same 24/7 line takes those calls too.
Toilet repair questions
Yes. The line is open 24/7, and we take overflowing toilets, leaks at the base and cracked bowls after hours. Shut the valve behind the toilet first, then call. We do not promise an arrival time, but we tell you what to expect.
Turn the small valve behind the bowl clockwise until it stops. If the tank is still filling, lift the lid and press the flapper closed. Then put towels down and call us. Do not flush again until the clog is cleared.
Most often the flapper no longer seals, the chain is the wrong length or the fill valve does not shut off. These are small parts, but the waste adds up on your water bill. We test the tank and replace what is worn.
Permits may apply, and the Millbrae Building Division handles plumbing permits. If the project adds a fixture, city code section 8.20.460 calls for a camera inspection of the sewer lateral first. A straight swap is simpler. Ask us and we will tell you which case you have.
Yes. A failed wax ring or loose flange can seep slowly under the floor covering, so the first sign may be a soft floor, a stain on the ceiling below or a faint odor. Call us if the floor around the base feels spongy.
If the porcelain is sound and the problem is a flapper, fill valve or seal, repair is usually enough. A cracked bowl, a toilet that clogs constantly or one that rocks on a damaged flange often points to replacement. We tell you which makes sense.
Frequent clogs can mean a partial blockage in the branch or main line, not the toilet itself. If other fixtures gurgle or drain slowly too, the line needs cleaning and possibly a camera look. Plunging alone just moves the problem.
Sources and standards: The California Plumbing Code (based on the Uniform Plumbing Code). Millbrae Municipal Code sections 8.20.460 and 8.20.480. The Millbrae Building Division for permits.